Yankee-style barbecue carves a niche for itself

Appeared in THE BOSTON GLOBE - May 20, 2004

By Jonathan Bloom, Globe Correspondent

The scene in Concord last weekend could have been a Dr. Atkins-sponsored campground, with the aroma of beef and pork barbecue wafting between tents and trailers. Barbecue teams alternated between prep work and lounging on folding chairs, waiting for the charcoal to work its magic on the meat.

This is the world of competitive barbecuing, where teams smoke briskets and pork shoulders for 12 to 15 hours, only to present their finest work just to judges. And at last Saturday's 11th annual Musketaquid BBQ Challenge, conducted by the New England Barbeque Society, 13 teams from Vermont to Cape Cod to Connecticut demonstrated that smoked meats and sweet sauces have a home in the Northeast.

While barbecue competitors from other regions may think of New England barbecue as an oxymoron, local teams have proven that they can do more than clam chowder. ''In 2002, we had three of the top 25 at the Jack Daniel's" Invitational in Lynchburg, Tenn., the self-proclaimed world championship of barbecue, said Greg Hunter, who competes along with his wife Nancee Geel on the Purple Turtle team from Norwalk, Conn. ''People laugh at Yankees' cooking barbecue, but we have some really good cooks."

While Kansas City is known for the dry rubs on its ribs and the Carolinas have their vinegar-infused meat, does New England barbecue have a style? Some say New England's trademark has its roots in the region's flora. ''There is a flavor to New England barbecue, and it depends on the kinds of woods available. We drop local woods like apple, cherry, and maple on the charcoal to flavor the meat," said Musketaquid judge Mike Bouchard of South Kingstown, R.I.

For others, the region's defining barbecue feature is what goes on top of the meat. According to competitor David Schaefer, a member of the Night Train Smokers of Concord, ''If there is a New England characteristic, it's sweet sauces. Sweet sauces and nothing too hot. We're not brought up on spicy foods. Heat doesn't score well."

Musketaquid organizer Mark Gelo admits, ''The entries that do the best tend to be on the sweet side." New England's barbecue style may stem from a combination of factors. ''New England barbecue is kind of a melting pot of styles. Here, there are people from all over and they tend to cook all different ways," said Gelo.

At last weekend's competition, held at the Musketaquid Sportsmen's Club in Concord, there were five categories: chicken, ribs, pork, beef brisket, and ''anything that lives in water." Trained judges graded entries for taste, appearance, and tenderness, and winners walked away with trophies crowned with gilded pigs, cows, fish, and chicken. There was also a grand prize, awarded to I Smell Smoke of Fitzwilliam, N.H. There were a few professional chefs competing, but most contestants came from all walks of life. From pipe-fitters to computer programmers, these were people who have taken a backyard pastime to another level. In fact, the top three teams, I Smell Smoke, Lost Nation Smoke Company of Essex, Vt., and Dr. Frankenswine from Orleans, were all essentially skilled weekend warriors.

“Most people do this for fun. It's a hobby, but it's an expensive hobby. Most teams spend at least $100 on the meat and thousands in equipment," said Gelo.

Though barbecuing has the reputation of being a male bastion, quite a few women were competing, including an all-women team, the Saucy Meat Rubbers of Worcester and Norwood.

Most of these culinary contestants were excited to talk turkey, or any other protein, but bristled at the use of the verb ''grilling." The ''G word," used a bit condescendingly, refers to the comparatively quick backyard burger preparation. In contrast, Saturday's entrants prefer the patient smoking at low temperatures -- hence the barbecue mantra ''low and slow."

Because of that lengthy cooking time, the Musketaquid, like most barbecue contests, started Friday evening. Once all the competitors have set up their tents and stoked their charcoal fires, they tend to let loose.

''The great thing about it is that it's more of a social thing, than competitive. It's just fun -- we all know each other. Here, at 3 a.m. people were still going," says Cambridge's Garry Howard, a former New England champion who won fifth place at the 2002 Jack Daniel's Invitational.

''The rest of the country doesn't party at contests like the New England people," said Howard. ''At the Jack Daniel's, people were dead serious. I'm not even competing at the Musketaquid, but I'm here just to hang out."

That's not to say that contestants don't want to win. After the raucous Friday night and laid-back Saturday morning, things started to get serious towards midday. With submissions due every half-hour from high noon onwards, teams were busy making last minute-adjustments like mixing apple juice into barbecue sauce to tone down its spiciness.

According to the rules of the Kansas City Barbeque Society, entries are always submitted in unceremonious white styrofoam takeout containers with a green leaf garnish. ''It can get competitive. There's no back-stabbing, and we've never caught anyone trying to cheat. But people want to win," said Gelo.

Finding the right cuts of meat can be a challenge. Contestants get their victuals from a variety of sources, from butchers to restaurant contacts to BJ's, but some have a harder time than others.

''It's hard to find these cuts of meat where we live," said Geel. ''People in New York City don't eat brisket unless it's at the Carnegie Deli."

Once they find their preferred cut, contestants cook copious amounts of food in order to present only their finest work to the judges. For example, teams usually cook six racks of ribs to choose the perfect six ribs. During, and especially after, the contest, that abundance is a boon to onlookers.

Then again, ''Getting rid of leftovers is sometimes harder than you'd expect. By the end of the day, you don't even want to look at barbecue," said Geel. ''But people will always take home a rack of ribs."

<< HOME

Contact Jon: jon@jonathanbloom.net